3.3.1 Basic Velvet Strip Making Method and Process

This section explains a basic velvet strip making method and process, which represents an innovative approach within modern folk craftsmanship. It integrates the essence and professional terminology of both Southern and Northern school techniques, skillfully incorporating the author's unique working habits to form a flexible and adaptable operational procedure, provided here for readers' reference and inspiration. Readers are encouraged to explore and summarize the steps that work best for them, based on their own preferences and experience.

Drawing on years of extensive teaching experience, the author provides an in-depth analysis and specific annotations for common error-prone stages in the making process, aiming to help readers avoid pitfalls and enhance their skills. Readers who value detail and strive for excellence are advised to carefully compare the photographic content and read the accompanying textual explanations thoroughly to gain a more comprehensive grasp of the techniques.

See the tutorial video: https://youtu.be/aQjItDAzrU8

Basic Velvet Strip Making Steps

Arranging the Threads
Common Untwisted Suzhou Embroidery Thread is used for this demonstration. Arrange 7 strands of untwisted Suzhou Embroidery Thread as one group, for a total of 15 groups. Beginners are recommended to use a single solid color for arrangement.

Securing
Once the threads are arranged, ensure the spacing between silk strands is even. Adjust the total width of the thread array to 4-4.2 cm, then secure it to the top of the combing frame using a large clip. (It is advisable to also secure the combing frame itself to the table using a large clip. If the table edge is thick, you can place a silicone pad or leather pad under the frame to increase friction, ensuring the frame does not tilt or shift during combing. The author employs the padding method here.)

Combing the Velvet
Combing refers to using a brush to gently separate individual silk strands, aiming to achieve a fluffy and lustrous appearance. The adequacy of combing directly impacts the quality of the velvet strips. Therefore, the author provides a detailed demonstration and in-depth explanation of this stage.

01  Before combing, first align the bottom ends and trim any uneven parts. During combing, work with two groups of threads as one small batch to ensure the silk strands are fully separated.

02  During combing, coordinate both hands: the left hand pulls the bottom end of the silk strands, while the right hand holds the brush and combs from top to bottom.

• ①No matter where the brush is, do not release the left hand.
• ②Only release the left hand after confirming the brush has reached the very bottom.
• ③Even if the left hand is released, the brush in the right hand should maintain pressure on the threads without relaxing its force.
• ④Alternate hands until the velvet is brushed fluffy.

03  When the brush in the right hand reaches the very bottom, only then can the left hand be released. Avoid releasing the left hand prematurely, as this can easily cause the bottom silk strands to knot or curl back.

Immediately after the brush in the right hand leaves the silk strands, the left hand must take over and pull on the velvet array. This keeps the bottom of this batch of silk strands under constant tension, preventing the entire group from becoming disorganized.

04  The image above shows two common mistakes. Avoid using the side of the brush to comb the threads; use the flat front surface of the brush, keeping the brush surface parallel and flush with the silk strands. Do not apply excessive force, embedding the silk strands into the brush bristles, as this can easily cause the threads to knot or pill.

05  The overall state of properly combed velvet silk is shown on the right side of the image. The velvet silk should not be in clumps but rather strand by strand, overall fluffy, soft, and cotton candy-like.

06  If you find excessive knots or insufficient fluffiness after combing, you can try manually detangling the velvet using a 42-tooth textile steel comb. As shown, when detangling, first divide the combed velvet array into two halves and work on one half at a time. Pinch the velvet array tightly with the fingers of your left hand (do not let go), and use the steel comb in your right hand to scrape from top to bottom. The scraping motion should be decisive and smooth, without hesitation, otherwise knots may become larger.

07  Scrape all knots down to the very bottom of the velvet array, then trim the uneven parts.

08  The properly treated state of the silk threads is as shown in the image.

09  If you notice the silk threads "frizz" or become staticky during combing, slightly dampen a cloth and wipe them. Using a water spray bottle is not recommended, as it can overly wet the threads, making combing difficult. If the clip securing the threads tends to shift during combing, reinforce it by using a large clip to secure the bottom of the frame to the table.

Tips
If you find the silk threads persistently difficult to separate during combing, it is likely an issue with the thread itself. Possible causes include excessive softener residue on the threads (requiring cleaning), an overly humid environment (e.g., the rainy season in southern regions), using the wrong type of brush, or incorrect combing pressure. The specific cause should be determined based on the actual situation.